Posted by Max on September 26, 2002 at 19:19:06:
In Reply to: Fork oils posted by LS400p on September 26, 2002 at 02:40:09:
I had a leaking seal so did mine last winter. I suggest only pulling one fork at a time as they have to be inverted to get to oil out. The first time for sure they will need a good flushing as they will have polished off the high spots in the sliding shock parts deep inside the forks. I used the recommended grade of fork oil as it isn't that expensive. I would think every 2 years would be often enough or even every 3 depending on the miles ridden and quailty of the roads ridden on.
You will need access to a 3/8 drive air impact wrench to get the fork slider allen headed capscrew loose, unless you buy the useless Suzuki special tool. Not the wrong part number pin spanner, but the new correct tool which is like on oversize easyout. The shop here told me they use the slighly sharpened end of a broom stick to hold the inner part while they spin the screw out as it has lock tite on it. Works like a charm. Need to have the locktite for reassembly and some alcohol, lacquer thinner, or brake clean to insure the threads in both parts are oil free.
Also be careful to note how the wires are routed around the forks when you reinstall them as misrouted wires to the turn signal an cause a blown fuse and no crank when they get pinched in the fork stop. Seems like the only part that could rust would be the wire retainer for the seal that sits under the dust cover. As my seals were ruined by bugs on the forks, I got a set of wetsuit type material covers from a dirt bike accessory catalog to protect the seal area. Seem to be working fine. I notice many of the new high dollar cruisers have some kind of trim or guard to prevent bugs and rocks from causing seal problems. Must have been an unexpected warranty expense if they are going to the trouble to guard them. Be sure to have a manual -either Clymer or factory for specs and procedures.